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S t a r k e e p e r s   M e m o r y   B o x
b y     P h y l l i s  T i l f o r d    C D A    © 2001

Instructions




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PREPARATION:

No preparation is needed for this surface. Using the sponge brush, or the large Phylbert, basecoat the top of the box with Stonewedge, and the bottom with Light Sage.


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STRIPES ON BOTTOM:
These can be taped off or freehanded, using the large Phylbert, with Wedgewood Green. They are approximately 2" wide. The band on the lid is also this color.

NOTE: All basecoating, shading and highlighting is done using various sizes of filberts. All shading and highlighting is floated color...and very transparent, more like a sideloaded glaze of color. The filberts hold a lot of water, and by blending the color out well on the palette, these brushes are wonderful to use when wanting a really soft floated color. Use a pat and pull motion, rather than one long stroke.

TRANSFER THE DESIGN, OMITTING THE STAR GARLAND:
FACES:
#2 filbert: Fleshtone: Paint under the hair as part of the face. Shade with Medium Flesh, around the sides. Dry. Moisten the surface with water. Pat cheeks on with a sideloaded, wiped out brush of Medium Flesh.
NOSE & MOUTH: liner: Inky thin Medium Flesh.
EYES: liner: Round circles filled in with Burnt Umber. Place a tiny Light Sage highlight in each one.
EYEBROWS: Apply these with same color as hair, thinned, using the liner.
WINGS: #10 filbert: Two-three widefloats of Light Sage, just around the edges. Be sure each layer is dry before applying the next.

BROWN HAIR: #2 filbert: Apply floats of Spice Brown from the crown and down around the outer side of face just to the lower hairline, then move the brush over toward the center for each side of the head and repeat, keeping the color on the outside edge. Dry. Repeat with a Burnt Umber shading around the outside edge. Use the liner, and thinned Burnt Umber, for single squiggly "hairs".

GOLD HAIR: As directed above
Apply floats of Butter Yellow. Dry. Repeat with Raw Sienna. Pull out tiny hairs with Raw Sienna + touch of Spice Brown.
HANDS: Repeat same color and shading as for face. Shade just under the sleeve.
GOLDEN ANGEL GOWN: #4 filbert for sleeves/#10 filbert for gown and shading. Basecoat Mocha: On the final coat, use the dirty brush, while the surface is still wet, and sideload into Butter Yellow.Highlight along top of sleeves, and outside edges of body. Dry. Shade with 2 - 3 coats of extremely transparent floats of Burgundy Rose.
TRIM: liner: One is Burgundy Rose and one is Blue Haze thinned to ink like consistency. When finished with each color, use the same dirty brush and pickup just a tad bit of very thin light Sage and streak over a few areas to highlight them.

BLUE ANGEL GOWN: Blue Haze: On the final coat, use the dirty brush, while the surface is still wet, and sideload into Light Sage. (Same highlight areas as previous gown).Shade with BlueHaze + Norsk, then Norsk + a touch Burnt Umber.
TRIM: liner: Burgundy Rose/Raw Sienna. Repeat highlights as instructed above, using Light Sage again as the highlight color.

STARS: Using the liner and thinned Raw Sienna...outline each star. Remove the pattern line. Change to the #2 filbert, and basecoat with Butter Yellow. Begin at the center and pull toward each tip using a well blended brush. Dry. Place floats of Raw Sienna on each side of each point. This should allow the center to remain highlighted. If it needs more highlight, moisten the surface with water, and using the sideloaded #2 filbert with Butter Yellow, wipe it out on a dry paper towel...and lightly pat the highlight back on, using a circle motion.

On the GOLD GOWN, highlight around the star, after it's been shaded with a bit of Butter Yellow if the background is too dark and it doesn't show up. STAR GARLAND: liner: Use the three trim colors in the gowns, and highlight the same on the areas that are on top of another area.

HALO: liner: Using the tip of the brush and very little pressure, pat on Spice Brown, then with the same dirty brush, begin to build up the highlight with Raw Sienna, then same dirty brush, and Butter Yellow. Keep the lightest colors in the front areas on the head, and on the halo where it is placed over the back area.

SCALLOP STROKES: #10 filbert: With a piece of chalk, mark off equal spaces using a dot. These are about 1 1/4" apart. Sideload the fairly wet brush into light Sage, blend on the palette until transparent in color, and float each scallop on. Comma strokes are made with the round brush, using Burgundy rose. Dots are Norsk Blue, made with a stylus.

Finish with 3 - 4 coats of varnish, using the large Phylbert for very smooth surface.



See other e-packet designs by Phyllis on her website: www.tolemill.com

E-mail Phyllis       Tel: 321.952.0217

Enjoy!

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©2001 Phyllis Tilford, CDA
This project may be taught or painted for fun or profit, not to exceed over 50, without the written consent of Phyllis.

This line drawing may be enlarged or reduced for other surfaces.
This e-packet is no different than a standard packet, and while it may be printed once when purchased as an e-packet,
it may not be re-printed, re-copied, re-produced, re-written or re-worded for teaching or any other purposes.
Standard Packets are available for teachers with discounts.